Taste of Brazil – The country is quite Fruity III (SAO PAULO Municipal Market)

Recently on our visit to Sao Paulo, we stopped at the municipal market and enjoyed the sights and sounds of a fully functioning market.  Filled with all kinds of products to tempt your taste buds. Before leaving the market we approached one of the vendors who had a magnificent display of fruits. After explaining I was from the United States, he began giving me  samples of some of the fruits from his booth.  Many of them I had never seen before and surely had not tasted.  It was truly a treat for my taste buds.

The first fruit we picked from the baskets was Longan.  My original hope was to taste more of Brazil but this fruit is actually imported from Southeast Asia. It really did not look very appetizing from the outside and I wondered to myself if I really wanted to give it a try.  Longan is grayish brown in color and has a stem protruding from one end which obviously is where it had been attached to the tree.  To get beyond the thin shell you just have to give it a little squeeze and the fruit pops right out.  I understand if this process is easy,  that is how you tell the fruit is ripe.  The Longan fruit has the nickname of “dragon eye” and when we expose the edible part it is obvious why.  Once the grayish brown peal is removed the remaining fruit looks like an eyeball and has a slimy texture.  There is a black seed on the inside which is hard but can be eaten however I did not eat the seed. My explanation of the Longan would be that it is slimy, sweet, juicy, and succulent.  I would definitely purchase these for an afternoon snack if I lived in Sao Paulo. .

The next fruit to taste is primarily from Northeastern Brazil although it can be found in other Central and South American countries.  This cherry tomato like fruit is called Siriguela.  Although it looks like a cherry tomato that is where the similarities end.  Harvested from trees, the little fruit is full of vitamin A, B, and C. So it looks and feels like a tomato but the texture of the meat is more like a grape. The flavor is not like anything I have tasted before as it blends a sweet with an element of sour.   I understand the fruit sweetens as it ripens.  The note I jotted down about the taste was: honey and grapefruit but not really like that at all.

The yellow with a hint of orange color of the Nesperas fruit catches my eye next.  I had not previously seen this fruit in the markets of Brazil and since I am trying new things of course I motion to my fruit expert that this is the next one  I want to try.  Originally from China,  the fruit can be found in many other places around the world including Hawaii. The fruits exterior resembles a pear without the historic shape of a pear although I found out later there is a variety that has the pear shape.  Upon taking a bite a sweet but slightly acidic flavor fills my mouth.  For me it would best be explained as a mix of peach and citrus with a slight hint of mango.  Definitely a flavor I have never encountered before and I continuing eating the whole piece that was cut off for me.

As I look over the selection of fruit I am intrigued by a dark purple fruit on the end of the table and motion the fruit guide to try this next. The purple mangosteen  is imported from Indonesia and that area of the world. Our guide scores the outer layer of the fruit with a knife and gently twists it open to reveal a cluster of white wedges tightly arranged inside.  These white wedges are the edible part of the fruit and he extracts one for me to sample.  My explanation of the Mangosteen fruit would be that it is quite juicy and smells good.  Not sure I have ever tasted a flavor like it,  maybe some combination of melon, banana, and green apple in a grape like texture without the skin.  To be quite honest it is a great blend of sour and sweet and my attempts to explain the flavors probably fall short.  In researching a little on Wikipedia, I find out that this fruit is called “The Queen of Fruits”, probably because of a legend that Queen Victoria offered great rewards to anyone who could bring this fruit to her. (there is no historical proof of this legend however)

Of course when you look at the photo of the next fruit,  it is no wonder it caught my eyes and they screamed at my tastes buds for a taste.  Rabutan is a beautiful red fruit with a spiny shell.  The fruit guide grabs a couple and again scores one side of the outer casing.  He proceeds to squeeze it open and soon the slightly white but translucent fruit is exposed.  He hands it to me and I bring it to my mouth,  a mildly acidic yet sweet flavor.  I did not jot down good notes on this fruit so will have leave it at that. However, I do remember that I ate both of the sample he opened up for me.

Without direction our fruit guide grabs the next fruit off the display and with a swift movement of his knife cuts the Grenadia or Sweet Grenadilla in half.  A variety of the passion fruit which on previous tastes was quite sour,  I am hesitant to take a taste.  But then again,  I am about trying new things and who knows,  this may have a different flavor as it is a different passion fruit.  The Grenadia grows in regions of South America and other tropical parts of the world.  I fill the spoon with the clear gel like meat of the fruit and bring it to my mouth.  Expecting the bitter taste,  my little taste buds are pleasantly surprised as the flavor of this fruit is quite a bit more sweet.  No sour here. The slimy fruit is not my favorite flavor but this type of passion fruit is definitely more pleasing then the ones I have had before.

Of course our visit to the fruit stand would not be complete without a sample of grapes, bananas, strawberries and cherries.  I am impressed with the large variety of grapes and bananas.  I did not realize there were different varieties and each one had a little different flavor or texture. All the fruits sure pack a punch when it comes to flavor as many are grown locally and picked ripe.  I snap a photo with our taste guide, tip him,  and we are on our way.  Definitively one of my favorite experiences in Sao Paulo.

 

GOOD BYE SAO PAULO — ON TO BEECH!

Well, our days in Sao Paulo have come to an end and I have to say my favorite things  here are the Afro Brazilian Museum, The Monument To The Independence of Brazil,  Paulista Museum, Pinacoteca, the Central Post Office of Sao Paulo and the Municipal Market of Sao Paulo  .  All of these are truly must visit spots in the city and I am sure they will be destinations for my next visit as well.  I have great memories of Sao Paulo and thanks to Thais, Jakeline, and Raphael for showing us around.  I look forward to my return visit and seeing those places that were closed or just outside the realm of our proximity.
Today is a short drive to Santos and then to

the beach.  We start off a little slow but we are anxious to get to the beach with the sun still in the sky.   We leave Sao Paulo and the city seems to go on and on and up and up.  Like other Brazilian cities,  it is filled with high rise residential buildings, but in Sao Paulo there are a number of business skyscrapers distinguished by the helicopter pads adorning the rooftops.   As we drive along “imigrantes highway” we pass favelas followed by wealthy neighborhoods and more favelas as we travel the hour journey to Santos.  A small city of around 400,000 residents located on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.  Santos shares an island with the first Portuguese settlement of Sao Vincente where the priest who started Sao Paulo were from.  The shoreline community

Streets of Santos

was founded 1546 and is known today as the largest port in South America.  It is truly the gateway for all imports and exports of the mega city Sao Paulo so it is not hard to see why it holds that title.  We arrive in the city and its narrow cobblestone streets just before noon.  Our car is full of our traveling stuff and a parking spot is hard to locate so we take only a couple of brief stops to look around.  When I say brief,  I mean we stay near the car and walk just fifty feet or so away.  It is hot and we are anxious to get to the beach,  well at least the Brazilians in the car are.  I would have preferred to spend time exploring the coffee museum, the beachfront garden considered the largest in the world by Guinness or the memorial to Pele – the great Brazilian Futebol player who played for the local Santos Futebol club.  I know the beach is calling for the rest of us in the car,  so I don’t raise too much of a fuss.  The history to explore in Santos is intriguing and I add the city as a place I will want to visit again and spend more time.

The cobblestone streets are narrow and lined with historic buildings, Portuguese tiled store fronts, and of course the influence of the Catholic church fill the port city with grand cathedrals.   We drive around for about a half and hour and then we find the beach and the ocean front.  Waves crashing against the shore line and beach goers all along the shore.  In between the avenue and the sand is a well manicured walking path,  beautiful palm trees and an occasional fountain.  It is a beautiful afternoon  for driving along President Wilson Avenue with the windows down enjoying the ocean air.  Luiz, Junior and Beatrice discuss the reputation of Santos’ shoreline, which is one of being dirty, but we acknowledge how clean it looks and are impressed.  The city must be making an effort to clean it up

in order to attract vacationers from Sao Paulo.  We drive along the shore until we come to the ferry at the tip of the peninsula that will take us across to Santo Amaro island and the city of Guaruja.   Known for its beaches and proximity to Sao Paulo,  Guaruja is a weekend destination for many of the cities families.  It is currently not high season so this is where we will look for a hotel and spend the afternoon and evening enjoying a little beach time.    My agenda also includes a good seafood meal while we are this close to the Atlantic.  The short ferry ride and we are on Santo Amaro island heading towards Guaruja.  Minutes later we drive through a tunnel arriving into the downtown business district.  With a little guidance from the Ipad map,  we head towards the tourist area of the city and the beach to begin our hunt for a place to stay.  After stopping a couple of places we agree upon the Pousada blocks from the beach.  A nice little place with a room in the back with beds for four.  Our room is right next to the barbecue pit so we are hopeful there will not be too much activity late into the evening being in the off season.  I would probably give the hotel a one and a half star rating in the U.S. but it is good for Brazil and what we want to spend.  Situated only a few blocks from the beach allowing us to split up,  we decide to take a little time for ourselves.  Some heading to the beach while others of us use a little quite time at the hotel.  I don’t do a lot of sunning so I choose option two and plan to head to the beach around three or four in the afternoon.

The hotel quiet time is nice and soon 3:00 arrives and I get ready and head to the beach.  Guaruja has beautiful beaches and it is obvious we are not here on a weekend or during peek holiday season as there are very few people enjoying the afternoon with us.  I spend a little time swimming in the refreshing waters of the Atlantic and catching some sun.  It is truly a relaxing afternoon, but soon the sun is setting and it is  time to find my seafood dinner.  A short distance down the beach we come across a little restaurant and decide to give it a try.  After the meal is ate,  my critique would be that it was not all that special.  The service was lacking.  the food was just ok, and it seemed

very touristy.  I am not sure what else I expected but was disappointed.  Beatrice and Junior had decided to wait and eat some place else so afterwards we headed McDonalds where I elected for desert.  This was only my second McDonalds experience in Brazil,  but the Snickers McFlurry and apple pie are the same as in United States and I am not disappointed.  I observe that there is  cheese bread on the menu and their sandwiches are a little different.  In Brazil a fast food meal is not as affordable as in the U.S.  – no $1.00 menu here.  After our meal/desert we head back to the shore, roll down the windows and drive along the avenue enjoying the sunset and the cool ocean breeze.  Soon it is time to retire as tomorrow is another travel day.   Our time at the beach  is not very long on this trip but then again I can spend time at the beach in the United States if I want.  Good night for now.. until the adventure continues tomorrow…

(thanks wikipedia for a detail here and there)

Santos Beach

Portuguese Tile

Santos

Santos — beautiful sidewalks

ferry ride

ferry ride

Guaruja Sunset

Guaruja Sunset

McDonalds Sandwich – Cedar Bacon Onion

McDonalds Apple Pie

McDonalds Receipts

SAO PAULO OR BUST – PART 4

Wow – it seems like when we travel in Brazil it is always good weather and today is no exception.  Our days itinerary is full so it’s a pretty early wake up, a quick get ready, and we are off before nine A.M. Our first destination of the day is a short distance from the hotel so we decide to walk.  As we stroll along down one of the cities typical streets, we notice a cemetery on the opposite side.  It is a large cemetery with lovely crypts catching the sunlight as it peaks over the building and trees of the city.  In a unanimous decision,  we decide to cross the street and look around.  The cemetery is the que vou Te Amar which was the first public cemetery in the city.  Inaugurated on August 15, 1858 in and attempt to improve the health and prevent epidemics in the city.  Prior to this date, the dead were buried in the interiors and close proximity of churches. With a new understanding of how this type of burial could affect the health of the residence a cemetery away from the city was a good solution.   At first all economic groups were buried here, but by the early 19th century it became a

social status with wealthy families competing to see who could build the best, most ornamental crypts. They hired many of Brazil’s most famous sculptors  to produce works of art at their families grave site and these works stand today.  We enter the grand entrance and walk down the pathway lined with trees leading visitors to the round information building.  I take a couple of photos before realizing photography is not allowed and find out later there is a pass you can purchase which authorizes visitors to photograph the artwork.  Down one of the paths an older man comes and begins to talk with us.  I am not sure what he says as he has a very heavy accent and I am unable to understand or follow his Portuguese at all.  Not that I would have understood it all if he did not have such an accent. Beatrice and Junior both state later that they had a hard time understanding him as well so I did not feel so bad.  After a few minutes of wandering between the ornate crosses, statues, and tombs we head back to the street to continue our day.

As we walk along we pass by other beautiful churches,  a residential tower designed by Oscar Neimeyer, and the city seems to be at a different pace today.  Maybe we are just in a different part of town.  We arrive at the Italia Terrace with its observation deck floors above the city, only to find that it is closed until later in the afternoon.  We come up with a plan to do some more sight seeing and return later.  After a short walk we end up in the same little four story mall we had coffee in yesterday and walking down many of the same streets in central Sao Paulo on our journey to the wholesale district.  The steep streets of the district are packed with people,  all looking for the best bargains.  This is where many store owners come from all over Brazil come to purchase

merchandise to sell in their stores.   The narrow streets are lined with specialty shops selling everything from kitchen supplies to watches and jewelry at wholesale prices. The hustle and bustle of the street reminds me of China town in New York City or San Francisco.  The district is a few blocks long and of course the people watching is great once again.
Our next destination is the Mercado Municipal de Sao Paulo (municipal market) and it is a good thing we arrive around lunch as there is plenty of famous things to eat here.  The market’s building  opened in 1933 and since then it has served the city well providing fresh fruits, spices, meats, and other products to the cities residence.  It is a huge building with arched window and two domes welcoming visitor to its interiors.  It looks to consume a whole block of the

neighborhood and our walk quickens as we near the front door.  Once inside the noises of bargaining compliment the sweet smells of fresh fruits and delicious lunches being prepared.  We spend a little time walking down the wide rows of the market in search of a particular item.  The cod pastels are infamous in Brazil and the Mercado Municipal de Sao Paulo is said to have some of the best in the country.  We have to follow our noses to have some for lunch.  Simply delicious – fried pastry filled with cod fish.  What a delightful treat for our mouths.  After lunch we walk around some more and I look at the variety of items being sold.  I am not sure I have ever seen cow hoofs before.  It is a great place to walk around and do some more people watching as well.  (maybe that should be the theme for today).  We are about to leave and I decide there is one thing on my agenda at the market.

I want to taste some fruit that I have never had before.  We stop at one of the vendors and after explaining I am an American he begins to offer me tastes of many different fruits from Brazil and around the world. Langon, Nespera,  Mangosteen, and Granadilla just to name a few.  I am sure there will be a blog post that shares more details about how the different fruits tasted.  When I was finished,  I tipped the guy and we were off.  Satisfied with a wonderful experience that I would tell anyone traveling to Sao Paulo to make sure they partake.
By the time we are finished with lunch and our fresh fruit tasting it is time to head back to the Italia terrace and check out the views.  Up… up… up… to the

observation deck on the 44th floor of the building.  The Edifício Itália is the the second tallest building in Sao Paulo and attracts hundreds of tourist.  We step out on the patio which circles the top floor of the building just outside the upscale restaurant and piano bar.  It is like looking at a large 3-D puzzle with buildings protruding towards us and on the streets below ant like people hurrying along.  This is a great place to get perspective of the size of this massive city and how it goes on from one horizon to the next.  The best way to describe it is through photos so I have created aslide show with great photos.
We end up spending a little time here and it is mid

afternoon at this point.  We are tired and discuss possibly ending the day early and heading back to the hotel but I express my wishes to head back to Ibirapuera Park were we first stopped on Sunday.  If you remember, there were just too many people out enjoying the weather for us to fully enjoy it so we had discussed going back.  Today is our final day in Sao Paulo and I really wanted to check out some of the things we passed on our stroll through the park.  With a little arm twisting,  I get my way and soon we are headed in that direction.  It is another wonderful sunny day to spend time at Ibirapuera Park and what a

different experience it is from our visit on the weekend.  Flowers blooming, birds singing, and a wonderful breeze blowing.  I missed these things on Sunday because I was too busy looking out for people walking, running, and biking.  The park is filled with beautiful sculptures and monuments dedicated to influential events and people of Sao Paulo and Brazil.   When we come to the Afro Brazilian Museum we are intrigued and decide to take a quick look.  What a wonderful find,  filled with artifacts of the ancestral lines of the African people in Brazil.  Costumes,  toys, artifacts and stories of how these immigrants lived in early Brazil fill the walls of the stark white building.  It is a wonderful collection and one of my favorite places in the city.

After about an hour and a half of looking around we leave the museum and head toward the dancing waters we visited the other day.  We walk past the Obelisk of Sao Paulo,  built from 1947 to 1970 to commemorate the Constitutional Revolution of 1932.   Today it stands boldly in the park as the tallest

monument in the city of Sao Paulo.   When we arrive at the lake we rest for a minute to watch the dancing waters and continue on as they abruptly stop dancing. Our next landmark is just outside Ibirapuera Park at its entrance.  Unveiled in 1954 during the parks opening celebration, the Monumento as Bandeiras

(“monument to the flags”) has stood at its entrance ever since. The massive granite statue pays tribute to the bandeirantes and their influence on Sao Paulo’s culture.   It reflects the diversity of the region,  depicting Portuguese settlers alongside indigenous men and women all pulling a canoe.  When we drove by the statue on Sunday,  there were people crawling all over it and today there is no one around.   It is great to have the opportunity to take pictures of this great landmark without anyone else posing for their own memories.  As the day ends and we grab a cab I look back at the wonderful details of this city on steroids.  Filled with people making history one day at a time and I am sure there is more to do and see,  so another visit will have to occur at some point.

(Read Good Bye Sao Paulo – Hello Beech)

Afrobrasil Museum

Inside the museum of Aftrbrasil

cow hoof for sale at market

Cod Pastel – Yum

Cemetary

Municipal Market Sao Paulo

Oscar Neihmeyer designed residential tower.

SAO PAULO OR BUST – PART 3

Like most of our travels the morning routine includes breakfast at the hotel which consists of some breads, fruits, coffee, and today they even have two cereal options.  After showers and Thais and Raphael arrive we are ready to head to the subway to begin the touring.  We walk  a couple of blocks  to the station and I am amazed by the volume of people on the escalators heading up this morning. They just keep coming from the depths below and all I can think as we ride the escalator down is we are fortunate to be heading in the opposite direction.  We purchase our tickets and hop on the first train going in our direction. Our first stop today is the Liberdade

neighborhood.  Sao Paulo has the largest Japanese community outside of Japan and that all begins in this neighborhood.   The subway ride is short and soon we are above ground at the large red Torii at the districts entrance.  Constructed in 1974 – this towering arch traditionally marks the entrance to Shinto temples in Japan, but here in Sao Paulo it stands proud at the entrance of the main road in Liberdade the Rua Galvão Bueno.  It represents the neighborhood behind with its Japanese street lanterns,  Japanese housewives heading out for their daily groceries,  Japanese businessmen rushing to work, and Japanese businesses marked with signage in their native language.  It is still morning at this point and many of the stores are just opening up so there is not a lot of exploring to do.  I hear there is a great market on the weekends in the square and I would love to come back and browse around in the future.  I guess it will just be another thing to add to the list to see next time.

With it being so early and little to see,  it is time to head to our next destination the Cathedral Metropolitania of Sao Paulo.  A beautiful structure constructed from 1913 and finally dedicated in 1954 in the neo gothic design.  With a large dome towering above the square below it is easily identified in the city and has the significance of being deemed point “0” for all the streets and avenues of Sao Paulo.  It is another fine example of the Catholic faith’s influence on Brazil and importance in their history.  The large wooden doors at the entrance are wide open, welcoming guests to the marble halls of the cathedral.  It is great to explore and there are plenty of photo opportunities even though the light is a little limiting and flash photography is not allowed.  After about a half an hour we are ready to explore the square in front and walk to our next destination.  The square is filled with tall palm trees reaching to the heavens above along with bronze statues of padres interspersed.  In looking at the statues

closer they all have red hearts fixed to their chests.  It is another time when I wish my Portuguese was a little better as I would definitely be asking around to see what the campaign of the red heart stands for. This area is filled with street people as well so we decide to stick together and make sure no one wanders off on their own.   We walk a little ways and come to another square (yes Sao Paulo like other Brazilian cities has plenty of squares throughout). This one is surrounded with the secreteria de justica with its bold columns at the entrance surrounded by arched windows and doorways.  It is just one of many buildings in the city with architectural character. On the same square is the colonial style building which marks the location where the city began.

This is where the Jesuits built their first school to educate the indigenous people.  The building is breathtaking with its simple architecture.  In the middle of the square stands a monument with a women holding a torch in one hand and and olive twig in the other commemorating the cities start. I tried to find the symbolism of these two items but was unable to find any information.
The next leg of our tour is a lot of walking through the streets of the city.  Filled with people going about their daily activities.  We pass by a Brazilian comedian performing  in front of the Faculdade de Sao Bento a building which houses a local university.  Even though the performance is in Portuguese,  I get a few laughs and realize his slap stick style of  humor translates through language barriers.   A short distance further and we are in the central part of the city and standing in front of

the Martinelli building.  It’s claim to fame is that it was the first skyscrapers built in South America.  Built at the beginning of the 19th century by Giuseppe Martinelli,  the 30 story building tells the story of the start of a city filled with skyscrapers that fill the horizon today.  Next time I am in Sao Paulo,  I want to make sure we take a tour of the building.
In front of the Martinelli building is a beautiful pedestrian boulevard filled with palm trees and other tropical vegetation.  There are plenty of places to find a shaded spot to take a break and I am sure the people watching would be spectacular.  But our journey today contains more walking and so we venture down the incline to the valley below… next stop the Municipal Theater of Sao Paulo.  Constructed from 1903 to 1911 it was met with great

expectations by the people of Sao Paulo and over the years it has not let them down as a leader of the arts in Brazil.  The building is prominently placed facing the Praca Ramos de Azevedo, another lush park filled with tropical plants, fountains, and statues which stands above the valley of the Anhangabau River.  In 1922 the theater hosted “The week of modern art” and introduced the Brazilian  Modernist movement which sought to break art away from the heavily structured  European influenced realistic art.  Modernism defied the days view of what was art and how art was to look. It also gave many rising Brazilian artists a platform to share their talents.  The theater has been a large influence in Brazilian art during its 100 plus years existance and has hosted theatrical plays and operas by the best international and national playwrights and composers. Today the building hosts the São Paulo Municipal Symphonic Orchestra, the Coral Lírico (Lyric Choir) and the City Ballet of São Paulo.

After a little while of looking around we journey down some more streets filled with people going about their daily routines.  There are some street people selling home made jewelry, a man piping in some music holding cds which are obviously for sale,  and plenty of business men and women in their office attire.  A short stop in a four story open mall for some coffee allows us to do some more people watching.  We soon continue our journey and come to a great building with obvious importance but we are not sure what it is. The decision is made to take a look inside and we are please to discover the Central

Post Office of Sao Paulo.  A magnificent building with bright artwork welcoming guests as they enter the atrium.  I truly enjoy the wonderful colors and distinct patterns of the art.  I convince my travel companions to ride the escalator to the second floor for a closer look and once we arrive at the top there is another area for us to investigate.  Inside a room off the atrium is a display celebrating the Brazilian phenomenon of Carnival with a couple of the extravagant costumes on display.  What a great unexpected find in the city.
Can you believe it is only lunch time and we have reserved this meal to sit down and have lunch at the infamous Famiglia Mancini Italian Restaurant. We find our way and enter into the eclectic eatery complete with wine bottles,  hanging baskets, and red checkered linens.   The host

brings us to a table towards the back next to a gorgeous blue and white fountain.  The party of six take our seats and spend the next hour or so enjoying a great meal and wonderful conversation.  The atmosphere of the restaurant takes second seat to the food and service as both are excellent and we leave satisfied and ready for more adventure.

After lunch Thais wants to take us to Oscar Freire Street, a   shopping district in Sao Paulo where american brand names mix with international specialty stores.  It is a wonderful street with lovely trees lining it.  Along one of the streets before we get to shopping district,  I find an antique store (the Antiquario Epoca)  and suggest we go in and take a look around.  Like traditional stores in the United States it is filled wall to wall with stuff.  Everything one could imagine.  The shopkeeper Alysson speaks English and tells us about her travels and some of her favorite pieces.  I truly enjoy looking around and finding some great items even though I am not in the market for anything.  She has traveled the world collecting these wonderful historic items and it is obvious she is attached to some of it as well.  After a while we head back out to the street and stroll down to Oscar Freire Street. Louis Vuitton, Armani, Carmen Steffens, Dior, Monblanc, Cartier, Cavalli, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste, Adidas, Nike, Diesel, and Marc Jacobs are just a few of the shops that line the luxurious street.
Besides the antique store,  my favorite boutique would have to be the Havaianas store.  A stark white building with bright cut-out accents designed by Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld to lure pedestrians in to purchase the famous Brazilian flip flops.  The design actually won the Shopping category at the World Architecture Festival in Barcelona in 2010.  I can totally see why it won the award,  there is just something refreshing and alluring about it even though I did not purchase any havaianas.

We head back towards the hotel as Thais and Rapahel need to head out to the suburbs.  After saying our good byes we walk the short distance to the Paulista Avenue.  This avenue is one of the most important avenues in the city with many financial and cultural businesses having their headquarters here.  The avenue was once a residential thoroughfare lined with lavish mansions,  today is it mostly commercial and considered the most expensive real estate in Latin America.  It is obvious that this is where the floods of people exiting the subway station this morning were heading to start their work days.  When we arrive this afternoon,  it is the start of the evening rush hour so the streets are not quite filled yet.  We walk a ways down the avenue and come across one of the old mansions as well as a statue with a red heart affixed to his chest.  I have still not found out what the red heart campaign is about but will do some searching this evening on line.

A short distance further we come to the famous native forest park – The Parque Siqueira Campos and since the streets are beginning to fill with commuters,  we find refuge by strolling into the park.   Another lush green space with park benches and all kinds of tropical foliage in the middle of Sao Paulo’s business district.  A nice place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city.   We take a leisure walk through the park and soon we are on the opposite end. The day has been long and the hotel is already calling us to take the evening off.  We find a nice patio at Defrutti where I enjoy a acai and strawberry treat.  What a great combination and end to a day full of touring.  After we are done it is time to retire to the hotel and get a good nights sleep as today was a lot of walking and tomorrow will be more of the same I am sure. (thanks wikipedia for some bits and pieces of information in this post)

(Read Sao Paulo or Bust – Part 4)

Havaianas Store

Liberdade

Red Heart Campaign???

Add caption

Heart of Sao Paulo

Central Post Office Sao Paulo

Central Post Office Sao Paulo

Famiglia Mancini Italian Restaurant

Famiglia Mancini Italian Restaurant

Cow Campaign make it to Sao Paulo

Mansion on Paulista Avenue

SAO PAULO OR BUST – PART 2

Wow — what a difference a nice bed and cooler temperatures make.  I get plenty of r.e.m. sleep and after a quick breakfast we are ready to head to Sao Paulo. The drive this morning takes a little over an hour and we are on the outskirts of the city and soon find ourselves driving down one of its many traffic filled streets.  My first impression of the mega-city  is that it is huge, there is a lot of traffic, the architecture is interesting which often incorporates  a helicopter pad on top and besides this detail,  it is very similar to a lot of cities back in the United States.   Sao Paulo has more helicopters per person then any other city in the world.  Many business executives choose this form of transportation to avoid the congested roads below.   I was not able to convince my touring companions to take a helicopter ride so we will just have to travel using the paved roads

below. On our drive we pass numerous favelas (shanty towns), many beautiful flowering trees and plenty of city sprawl.   For a stretch of our drive we are parallel to the Tiete River and its tributary the Pinheiros river.  As we drive along an odor begins to infiltrate the car and although the weather is quite fresh we close the windows and turn on the air.   This terrible stink is from all the pollution in the river system.  The   Tiete River is often referred to as the most polluted river in Brazil.  They have spent over fifteen years working on cleaning it up with  promising progress and yet today it is obvious to us there is much left to do.    Along our drive we pass by the Octavio Frias de Oliveira Bridge with two lanes of traffic that cross each other like an X  in the middle.   This crossing sends vehicles in two directions when they reach the opposite side of the Pinheiros river. The bridge is famous for its holiday decorations around Christmas time and the uniqueness of its design.
Our first destination is Ibirapuera Park filled with museums,  gardens,  sculptures, and lots of walking paths.

It is a beautiful Sunday afternoon and a place to park the two vehicles is our first hurdle,  but after a short while we succeed and are soon walking down the traffic free roads which wind through the park.  Ibirapuera Park is often referred to as Central Park of Sao Paulo and today it is easy to see why.  The park is filled with people as it seems everyone in the city has the same idea regarding how to enjoying the afternoon here.  It is quite crowded and after a short walk to see the famous dancing fountains and a couple of other attractions,  we decide it is a place we should come back to during the week when there are less crowds.  There is no way to get many photos of the things we want without having a ton of other people posing with us.  It is an enjoyable day and after a few days in the car a walk in the park is simply wonderful.

Our second destination today is on the banks of the Ipiranga brook where Padro I of the Portuguese Empire stood and declared independence for Brazil on September 7, 1822.  A granite and bronze monument known as The Monument to the Independence of Brazil or Alter of the Fatherland was designed and built to celebrate this occasion.   It is a massive memorial with sculptures of a small group of men on the one end commemorating a 1789 uprising in the city of Ouro Preto.  This uprising is called the Inconfidência Mineira and is considered a starting point to Brazil’s independence and began the process that led to Pedro’s action.  The monument also plays tribute with sculptures of other individuals like Hipólito José da Costa and Joaquim Gonçalves Ledo who played important rolls in convincing Pedro to make his declaration of independence.  On the front of the monument there is an eternal flame that overlooks the Ipiranga brook and symbolizes strength of Brazil’s future.

Behind the flame is a large crypt where the remains of Emperor Pedro I and his two wives are housed and on top of the crypt there are statues of revolutionary men with their canons and horses.  As the second place we visit, I am truly impressed and begin to look forward to more of our touring of this great city. Our visit to the monument is enhanced by the piano playing of Arthur Moreira Lima.  A famous classical pianist from Rio de Janiero who is currently traveling around Brazil to places where classical music is rarely heard.  It is just by chance that we are here to enjoy a portion of the free concert as we admire the Monument to the Independence of Brazil.   I had not heard of him prior to today,  but after I listen for a while,  I appreciate his talent and will make sure to add a pandora station to my Ipad.
My anticipation of what is next cannot be halted as in distance, up a great incline, is a wonderful yellow mansion of a building.   This building is part of our journey today so after a few minutes of musical enjoyment we begin to dodge the skateboarders speeding down the steep incline. It seems so dangerous and we are surprised this is allowed in such a tourist spot.  However, later a security guard tells us skateboarding is only permitted from one to three on Sunday afternoons.  I guess you

 

 

 

can say the skateboarding made a lasting impression on me or maybe it was the fear of getting plowed into.  Well, back to our journey, after we make it a forth of the way we veer left to a little frontier home which has been preserved.  It is said that this is the exact location where Pedro I exclaimed “independence or death” and with this declared Brazil’s independence.  We peak around the little home which is filled with artifacts from colonial Brazil.  They have been preserved wonderfully and after a quick look we are ready to continue up the hill.  More zigging and zagging to avoid being pummeled, we finally arrive at the beautiful gardens and fountains which welcome usto the Paulista Museum, the Museum of Brazilian History.  We wander around the gardens admiring the perfectly manicured foliage and find plenty of photo opportunities.   Soon we are ready to explore the insides of the majestic mustard colored building standing boldly at the summit of the hillside.  Our pocket books are surprised as there is no charge on Sundays but that will also mean it is a little more crowded I guess.  Immediately upon entering one is thrown back into days gone by as portraits of the first presidents

of each Brazilian State line the rotunda.  We continue down the long halls in each direction peaking in rooms filled with artifacts from Brazil’s Imperial and Colonial periods.  It is a wonderful collection with old trains,  dresses,  kitchenware, and much more.  There are many stories told of Brazil’s history and its humble beginnings.  I would love to share these marvels with you but photography is not allowed so you will just have to visit the museum yourself someday.  After a couple of hours of time looking around, we decide it is time to head to the hotel.  On our descent from the museum we walk through a small street fair filled with  wares hand crafted by local merchants and different kinds of street foods.   It is a quick trip through the fair as we are hungry and have some things to do before we eat.

 

Our third stop is the hotel so we can check in and secure our bags but upon arrival the room is not ready – go figure.  They do have a garage for our vehicles and allow Thais’ mom Jakelline to park there with us so we decide to leave the cars and continue our Sao Paulo adventure.  A quick stop at a little mall for some food and we are off for the subway station.  As we walk to the station, the streets are filled with vehicles and people scurrying to their destinations.  We descend in to the subway station and find a map on the wall to route our trip.  First impression is that it is clean and well maintained.  There are quite a few people entering so it is obviously a reliable way to get around the city.  We purchase our tickets and are off to our next

destination Park da Luz and the oldest museum in Sao Paulo “Pinacoteca”.  We exit the train and head above ground into Luz Station.  Constructed in the early 1900’s when coffee was being transported to the city by train and renovated in the 1990’s,  it is a beautiful piece of architectural history and a great place to look around for a bit.  Very similar to train stations in the United States with a large open area for arriving and departing trains,  lots of glass to let sunlight in and of course a few homeless people loitering around.
Across the street is a beautiful park with many statues and sculptures along the main paths.  We briefly walk through some of the grounds but as the afternoon is fading and our real destination is the Pinacoteca, we head towards the two story brick building at the corner of the park.

The Pinacoteca was founded in 1911 and has a large collection of Brazilian art.   It hosts a transient international circuit of exhibits which continues to bring in artists from around the world.  I am impressed by the beautiful paintings and sculptures and even recognize an artist or two.   We spend a few hours wandering around the halls of the magnificent brick building exploring each of the three levels.  It is a great way to spend the afternoon but as the day begins to wind down  we have a couple more places to see in the area so we must leave the Pinacoteca.

We want to make sure we are on the train before it gets too dark as the Luz neighborhood of the city has recently been in the news for the drug dens and number of homeless drug addicts who have congregated here.  We are encouraged to stay together as a group,  keep our cameras close, and pay attention to our surroundings as we begin our walk to the next “must see”.   A little while later with no incidences we arrive at the Julio Prestes Train Station another grand building constructed during the reign of coffee plantations in the interior regions of Brazil.  In the early 21st century the building was renovated into a concert hall where the Sao Paulo Symphony performs today.  This renovation from train station to symphony hall took many years as the engineers struggled to reconcile modern technology with historic conservation. In the end

81 of the original doors were restored and after reviewing many photographs much of the intricate details were reproduced to hold on to the historic attributes.   We step up to the front doors only to find out the hall is currently under renovations and closed for three months.  Disappointed as this is one destination I really wanted to visit after seeing pictures of the majestic hall which houses the symphony.  It will get added to the list of places to see on my next visit to Sao Paulo for sure.

We walk back through the Luz neighborhood surrounded by poverty and wealth intermixed.  There seems to be a few more street people wandering around so I am not as disappointed that the hall is closed.  Exploring would have pushed the return to the station back a while but soon we are at the ticket booth purchasing our return trip.   Our destination now is a district known for its great restaurants.  After we leave the subway station and a short debate on getting a cab, the decision is made that we have enough energy for a short walk.  Little did we know it would be a walk up a long auto less street with

 

wonderful graffiti to distract us from our journey.  Once we reach the summit we find ourselves in an upscale residential area with no restaurant district around.  This short walk is becoming longer then we expected so when we find a corner with a few places to eat we choose one for our evening meal.  It is a nice meal and soon it is time to grab a cab (well actually 2) and head back to the subway which will bring us to the hotel.   It has been a long but wonderful day in Sao Paulo.  After a shower, some unpacking, a little computer time,  my head hits the pillow and eyes shut immediately – dreams of the days adventure dancing through my restful mind.

Fountain in Luz Park

Crowds at Ibirapuera Park

 

Subway Station

Luz Train Station

Nikki

Skateboarders!

Arthur Moreira Lima

Dancing Waters at Ibirapuera Park

SAO PAULO OR BUST – PART 1

Yeah,  it is time to travel again and the destination for this trip is the state of Sao Paulo.  First stop…the 7th largest municipality in the world, 8th largest urban area seen from outer space,  24th largest city by area known to man, 6th most populated city on the planet and 2nd most populated metropolitan area in the the Americas…

Sao Paulo

Oh yeah,  it is the largest city in the southern hemisphere, the Americas, and in the country of Brazil as well.  It is often referred to as the economic heart of the country.  Let’s start this journey with a little history and then share the trip details as we explore to see what this city on steroids has to offer.
In 1532,  the port city of Sao Vicente was founded along the Brazilian coast in an effort to guarantee the Portuguese possession of the region.  This was actually the first permanent European settlement in the country of Brazil and in 1554 a small group of Jesuit missionaries walked up the hills just inland from the

settlement in search of the perfect location to start a new college.   Their mission was to convert the Tupi-Guarani Indigenous Brazilians to the Catholic faith as well as increase the Portuguese crowns ability to rule over them.  The Jesuits chose a location near the Tiete River just beyond the Serra do Mar cliffs for their new college which would later become the location for the current day city of Sao Paulo.

Being the natural entrance to the fertile high plateau to the west,  Sao Paulo became the natural entrance from the East coast and a stopping point just beyond the coastal city and port of Santos (only 42 miles away).  The city’s development was influenced by the Jesuit missionaries as well as Bandeirantes.   The Jesuits with their mission to convert the natives and the Bandeirants who were interested in catching them and turning them into slaves often created conflicts between the two groups.   Today the Bandeirants are credited with the exploration of much of Brazils interior and played a huge role in the countries history.  These Bandeirants were privately funded groups of men called bandeiras who’s initial purpose was to capture and enslave the indigenous people but soon changed focus as minerals were discovered in the interior of Brazil.   Due to treaties the Portuguese Empire

had entered into with Spain, they were not able to send expeditions into these regions.   Because the bandeirants were not state funded they didn’t have to obey the treaties and went freely into the vast unmapped regions spreading the Portuguese influence.  Many of these groups were based in cities along the coast but the most famous Bandeirants were based in Sao Paulo.  They would set out to scout for gold and slaves in the mid region of current day Brazil.  Yes, like a lot of the push west in North America,  Gold was the catalyst that brought many people seeking fortune and adventure.  Sao Paulo soon became known as the gateway to Minas Gerais where much of the gold and other mineral wealth was discovered.   Many of the profits from these finds were invested in sugar cane plantations around the city.  These plantations would later be converted to coffee and are currently still producing the caffiene filled bean.   At the time of the industrial revolution in Europe, many European immigrants flocked to the

Antique Record Player at Truck Stop

city and state of Sao Paulo bringing with them the technology and engineering to bring about the industrial changes here as well.  It soon became the most prosperous state in the country with many companies choosing it for their headquarters and railroads being built between it and almost every other Brazilian city.  Over the years,  these same immigrants from Europe, Asia, and of course other parts of Brazil have added their flavor to the city and make it quite a melting pot of its own.
Let’s not forget that Sao Paulo also holds an important spot in Brazil’s independence from Portugal.  In 1807, the Portuguese Royal Family fled Portugal to escape from Napoleon’s armies and established a royal court to rule the Portuguese empire from Brazil.  After the defeat of Napoleon the royal family moved back to Portugal in 1821 and left their eldest son Pedro in charge.   Brazilians were not happy with their return to colony status and in 1822 in Sao Paulo,  Pedro declared Brazil independent and himself Emperor.

Today, Sao Paulo is culturally and artistically diverse being on the cutting edge of art and literature for the country of Brazil.  Paulistanos (people from Sao Paulo) are proud of their multicultural roots and continue to lead the present day Brazil in economics and politics. (thanks again wikipedia)

Now on to our present day journey.

We leave Goiania with Luiz, his brother Junior and sister Beatrice along for the journey.  The skies are blue with a few clouds once again.  The first leg, a long drive through the countryside is only broken up by small communities, an occasional river, and of course the ever so often toll plaza.  Fortunately the weather is good and the only “stops” we make are for a quick bite to eat or a cup of java.  One of the quick stops is a quaint little cafe / truck stop (yes truck stops can be quaint) filled with wood carved animals and antique record players.  It is a nice distraction from the kilometers of travel we find ourselves on.  The cheese bread and coffee is good too.
We drive all day and towards evening we turn off to the little town of  Uberaba (population just under 300,000) and make our way to the heart of the city.  A beautiful square with a majestic cathedral standing guard over it on the far is what we find.  There is a small corner hotel and we inquire about lodging only to be disappointed there is no internet. OK, the rate is incredibly cheap so one can

only conclude it is a little scary as well.  We decide to investigate a second option the front desk attendant gives and continue around the downtown area.  There are lots of people loitering in the square on this warm night and we are not sure how safe this area of town is.  It is hard to tell as the loiterers are a mix of  different groups – young kids, street people – well dressed individuals, all sharing the same place but not interacting with one another.  We pull up in front of hotel number two which is definitely a more upscale establishment but when the room rate triples and still no internet,  option one begins to sound better so we drive back to at least look at a room. By this time we are tired and don’t want to spend a lot of time searching for a place to sleep.     No internet for one night is not the worst thing to live without. By the time we return all rooms at hotel number one are booked and the front desk clerk tells us there are several hotels by the bus station in another part of town.  He gives us directions and we say good bye to the cathedral and central square to adventure through the city towards the bus station.  The dimly lit streets are filled with the usual small shops,  cathedrals, and residences

surrounded by walls of protection.   It is a short drive and soon we stopping to check out rates at hotel number three but there is no vacancy here.  Around the block to the back side of  the bus station where there is a row of hotels.   Surely there has got to be something here.  Our first stop is Hotel Uniao and although no internet is available it is late, the rate is cheap, and we are tired from traveling all day.  The little room with four single beds and limited floor space in between will have to do.  Did I mention it is a warm evening and there is no air conditioning and limited windows for any kind of breeze?  However, the room comes complete with a huge single speed fan that sounds like an airplane taking off.  Although I like sleeping with a fan,  this one may be a little more then my r.e.m. sleep will tolerate.   As I lie in bed waiting for my brain to shut down,  I take a

memory little trip back to college when it was not unusual for some friends and me to road trip and stay at some incredibly  inexpensive hotels.  Money was tight and we always seemed to find the least expensive places to stay.  They had limited amenities and sometimes they were not very clean.  At least this hotel is clean and the owner/front desk clerk is very accommodating as he seems enthused to have an “American” staying there.
Like I had imagined,  it is a long night and between the warmth and the single propeller fan, I tossed and turned all night. Not the most restful nights sleep.  (read more about Uberaba) Good thing the travel planned for today is short and we are staying at our friend Thais’ house this evening.   After our showers, breakfast and coffee  we load the trunk of the little car and our journey continues down the divided highway past more fields, palm trees, rivers, and small towns all gracing the roadside.

As we drive along kilometer after kilometer,  being from Iowa,  I begin to notice a difference about the crop land here verses the United States.   When you drive through the midsection of the U.S. there is a sense of uniformity and predictability.  All the crops are at the same stage of development.  They are all planted around the same time, grow at the same rate and are then harvested around the same time.  The crops here in Brazil are at all different levels of development. Some of the corn is just sprouting, some is knee high, and other fields are ready to harvest.    Because the weather really never gets cold,  farmers are able to grow crops all year long.

They have two growing seasons verses the single season in the U.S. and so you find fields in all the stages of production.  You never know,  one field could be getting ready to harvest while the next was just planted and beginning to sprout.  I have not noticed this on previous travels but today it is truly apparent to me so I thought I must mention it.

Our journey takes us by the production factories of  “51″ cachaca, the most famous Brazilian sugar cane rum in the country.  It only gets mentioned because the cachaca is used to make caipirinhas which is the national drink of Brazil and they are delicious!   We want to get to our destination so we only stop for a quick cup of coffee without any rum.
Another city we drive through is Americana.  I am intrigued by this city as it was founded in 1875 shortly after the end of the civil war in the United States.  Refugees from the then defeated confederate states settled here after fleeing the  devastated southern region of the U.S.  I always think of refugees fleeing to the United

States and not from United States.  This has truly sparked me to read and learn more about this region. The most famous refugee was the Senator from Alabama William Hutchinson Norris.  The Senator along with 30 other families fled the states for Brazil. They are recognized as the founders of Americana which at that time was called “Villa da Estação de Santa Bárbara” (Santa Bárbara Station Town) and more commonly known as “Villa dos Americanos” (Town of the Americans).  This area of Brazil was well suited for growing cotton and since slavery was still legal here,  it was the perfect place for these families to settle and prosper.  Today the refugee’s ancestors are called Confederados and still hold an annual festival celebrating the history of the city and the influence of the Southern United States on it.  Someday I would like to return here during the festival and do a little exploring but today it is not part of our itinerary so a drive by on the good old toll road will have to suffice.  (thank wikipedia)

It is not long after we drive through Americana that we arrive at our destination city of Itatiba. A northern suburb of the city of Sao Paulo where President Bill Clinton is rumored to have a home.  The city is considered to have the 3rd highest oxygen levels of anyplace in the world and it used to be the furniture capital of Brazil.  Itatiba means “many rocks” in the Tupi Guarini language and has around 91,000 residents. ( again thanks wiki)

The Kreuz’s (Thais’ family) home is a short drive down a eucalypti lined road in a beautiful subdivision of the city.  As we pull through the front gate, we are greeted by her mom, her brother and Thais herself.  It is a beautiful home complete with pool, plenty of outdoor living space and of course several hammocks. We arrive a little before noon so shortly after our arrival lunch is served and we are treated to a wonderful meal.  The conversation revolves around catching up and our plans for the next few days. At least that is what I gather as my companions and host family are speaking in Portuguese and all I can do is listen intensely for words I recognize.  Thais, her mom, and Luiz’s nephew Raphael (Thais boyfriend) will be joining us for the first few days of exploration Sao Paulo.  It will be great to have a Paulistanos as a tour guide.  Shortly

after lunch a rain shower comes roaring in and our plans for some pool time are busted, but the resonance of rain sure make a nap more relaxing.  We spend the afternoon lounging in the hammocks and catching up on the sleep we lost last night.  Before evening comes a few errands need to be run so we all load into the vehicles to explore a city of Itatiba.  Once again it is a beautiful little town with all the amenities needed for Brazilian life.  OK – no McDonald’s, Walmart, Taco Bell, or really any big box stores but who needs those anyway.  There are plenty of places to find anything one would need for everyday life and some specialty stores as well.  We spend a few hours driving around stopping at a small bakery for bread,

An animal in the park in the neighborhood

a butcher shop for meat, and a couple of their favorite stores to just look around.  It is a nice community and our site seeing ends with a quick drive through their neighborhood to see all the homes, parks, and recreational areas.
The close of the day is complete with a Brazilian barbecue, more talk about what we want to do in the city, and of course an early bed time in preparation for tomorrow.

Front Gate at Kreuz

Table setting for lunch – beautiful

Lamp at a store we visited

Geese in their neighborhood

Yes, Coca Cola is branded all over Brazil

This ain’t Iowa !!

Itatiba

Chicken Hearts – a standard part of Brazilian BBQ